Visiting Kasar Devi Temple in Almora, Uttarakhand, with my family in the evening was an experience I’ll never forget. The moment we started ascending the hill, surrounded by pine and deodar forests, there was a calmness in the air that instantly lifted our spirits. The temple sits high above the valley, offering an incredible panoramic view of the Himalayas. As we reached just before sunset, the entire sky slowly turned golden, then pink and purple, reflecting beautifully over the distant peaks of Nanda Devi and Trishul. It was such a mesmerizing sight that we stood there in silence for a while, simply taking it all in.
The temple complex is small but filled with an unexplainable energy. There’s a main shrine dedicated to Goddess Kasar Devi, and nearby are temples of Lord Shiva and Bhairav Baba. Inside the premises, a sacred flame called Akhand Jyoti burns continuously, and the Dhuni (holy fire pit) nearby is said to have healing properties. Sitting there in peace, hearing the soft ringing of temple bells and feeling the cool mountain breeze, we could understand why so many people describe this place as spiritually magnetic.
The surroundings add even more charm. Just outside the temple area, you’ll find a few cozy cafés and homestays where travelers from around the world come to meditate, paint, write, or simply enjoy the serenity. The atmosphere during sunset was magical—the orange glow fading into deep blue, the quiet rustling of trees, and a feeling that time had slowed down. It’s truly a place where nature and spirituality meet perfectly.
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History and Significance:
Kasar Devi Temple is believed to date back to the 2nd century CE and is dedicated to Goddess Kasar Devi. What makes it truly extraordinary is its location on the Van Allen Belt, one of only three spots in the world where the Earth’s magnetic field is exceptionally strong. This is said to create a powerful spiritual energy that aids meditation and inner peace.
Swami Vivekananda meditated here in the late 1800s and wrote about his deep spiritual experience in his diaries. In the early 20th century, western mystics such as Sunyata Baba (Alfred Sorensen) and Lama Anagarika Govinda made Kasar Devi their home, turning it into a hub for spiritual seekers. Later, during the 1960s and 70s, the area became a favorite among artists, writers, and musicians from around the world. Personalities like Bob Dylan, George Harrison, and D.H. Lawrence are said to have spent time here, drawn by the tranquility and mystery of this Himalayan ridge, also known as “Crank’s Ridge” or “Hippie Hill.”
The temple also hosts the annual Kasar Devi Fair during Kartik Purnima (November–December), attracting devotees and travelers alike. Over time, this hilltop has become not just a sacred destination but also a place of reflection, creativity, and deep connection with nature and the self.