Didn’t expect to enjoy this meal so much—especially after having what I considered the best meal of my life just the day before. Yet somehow, most dishes here carried a distinct point of view. Not just well-executed, but with a sense of personality I hadn’t quite experienced before.
The first thing I loved was the warm, house-made sourdough boule with anchovy butter. I’ve had anchovy butter in pasta plenty of times, but never like this. Simply paired with bread fresh from the oven. The sour tang of the boule played against the anchovy’s deep umami and faint funk in a way that was both rustic and elegant.
Then the steak tartare with kumquat, mint, and Aleppo pepper. Tartare is rarely the course that catches me off guard, but this one was different. Zesty citrus from the kumquat, fragrant freshness from the mint, and a gentle heat from Aleppo pepper oil—all framing the tender, subtly seasoned beef.
Kristal Caviar with artichoke & egg yolk was a bold move pairing caviar with just vegetables, but it worked. The sharp, tangy quality of the artichoke married well with the salty richness of the Kristal caviar. Unexpectedly balanced with egg yolk adding a touch of creaminess.
One of the evening’s most satisfying bites came from a supplement: jamón Ibérico with smoked mussels, potato, and saffron. The jamón had a unique appearance, almost like a delicate, furry jerky, possibly due to mold from the aging process. But the flavor was incredibly layered (likely a result of 12 years of curing). It paired beautifully with the silky potato purée, and while not the most mind-blowing dish of the evening, it was the most satisfying.
The lamb course was obviously perfectly cooked, but the highlight was the spring onion purée infused with black garlic. It delivered an intense umami note that quickly settled into a garlicky sweetness. Well-rounded and comforting. Glad I didn’t spring for the wagyu upgrade.
The finale was Birch Custard with Mostarda, Sourdough & Fermented Blueberry. Not sure I picked up strong birch earthiness, but the custard had a rich, thick texture and a restrained sweetness. Classic pairing with fermented blueberries, which added tartness and depth.