(由 Google 翻译)如果可以给这家寿司店打六星,我一定会给。我是周六晚上去的,所以不是大名鼎鼎的诺兹大厨。不过,这并没有影响整体体验。走进用餐区,氛围温馨宜人。餐厅布置得非常整洁,只有八人座位。在你面前的桌子上,放着一封写着你名字的欢迎信。服务员和侍酒师都非常周到。侍酒师清晰地讲解了菜单,我最终点了麒麟山纯米大吟酿。喝完第一杯后,我本来想换一杯。侍酒师很好心地让我先尝一下,然后再倒满,结果我的确不太喜欢。所以我就点了同样的清酒。我真的很感激侍酒师对每个细节的用心。
选完酒,现在我们来看看菜品。当天的主厨是柴田雄大。他非常友好和专业(当然对于一家米其林二星餐厅来说),并且会回答任何问题。omakase 从多汁的牡蛎开始。这是一道非常清爽的开胃菜,我很高兴它与日本清酒也很相配。旅程继续,我们上了北海道海胆和比目鱼刺身。没有特殊的酱汁,所以你尝到的每一口都是它们最原始的味道。这是我喜欢这家餐厅的另一个原因:没有太多花哨的东西,只有食材本身。然后是鲣鱼。鱼皮炸得酥脆,但鱼还是生的。不同的口感和海苔一起在你的嘴里爆炸。接下来是一场表演。你可以看到副厨师将面条挤进开水中。面条不是荞麦面或任何传统的面条。相反,它们是用鱼做的,所以有一层额外的鲜味。面条与汤和鱼很好地融合在一起。进入主寿司环节之前的最后一道菜是炸银比目鱼。炸得酥脆,淋上鱼子酱,味道复杂却又简单。说复杂,是因为热腾腾的炸鱼配上冰凉的鱼子酱和酱汁。酥脆的外皮、柔嫩的肉质、一口一口的鱼子酱,共同构成了一道令人回味无穷的菜肴。说简单,是因为美味本身就足够了。
现在轮到主角了(或者说,主角们)。所有寿司的种类都很简单:海鲜、芥末、酱油和醋饭(醋饭)。通过这样的搭配,你可以清晰地分辨出每种鱼的不同。寿司从一些清淡的食材开始,比如金目鲷和虾。然后,当你看到金枪鱼家族时,你就知道高潮即将到来:从赤身鱼到中腹鱼,再到精致的金枪鱼。拿起寿司,依然能感受到师傅手上残留的温度,我想这就是它和那些现成寿司最大的区别。每一根寿司都做得完美无瑕。大腹寿司之后,是各种风格的寿司,比如海胆军舰寿司和星鳗手卷。最后,寿司的配菜是玉子和味噌汤。
甜点的设计也非常巧妙。第一个甜点是玉米冰淇淋,我以前从未尝过,尝起来像冰玉米浓汤。最后一个甜点是我最喜欢的:北海道夕张蜜瓜。甜美可口,入口即化。虽然两星餐厅的菜品已经足够美味,但实际的摆盘还是超出了我的预期。或许正因如此,这家寿司店才值得两星。离开之前,我还和柴田主厨愉快地聊了聊。我肯定会再次光顾Sushi Noz,即使主厨不是Noz,也绝对不会失望。
(原文)
If I were able to give this sushiya 6 stars, I would. I went there on a Saturday night so it was not the famous Chef Noz. However, that didn't really affect the entire experience. Upon entering the dining area, the ambience was warm and welcoming. It was a very neat 8-seat setting. In front of you, on the table, was a welcome letter with your name on it. The server was very attentive as well as the sommelier. The sommelier clearly explained the menu and I ended up with Kirinzan Junmai Daiginjou. After I finished the first glass, I was thinking about trying a different one. The sommelier was kind enough to let me try before pouring the entire glass and I indeed didn't like it. So I just ordered the same sake. I really appreciate how the sommelier cared for each detail.
After choosing the drinks, now let's focus on the food. The Chef that day was Yudai Shibata. He was very friendly and professional (of course for a two-stat Michelin restaurant) and would answer any questions. The omakase started with the juicy oyster. It was a very refreshing appetizer and I'm glad that it also went well with the sake. The journey continued with Hokkaido uni and flounder sashimi. No special dressing so everything you tasted was from their most original flavor. This was another thing I love about this restaurant: nothing too fancy but the ingredient itself. Then there was the bonito. The skin was crisply fried but the fish was still raw. The different textures exploded in your mouth along with the nori. The next one was a show. You can see the sous chef squeezing the noodles into the boiled water. The noodles were not soba or anything traditional. Rather, they were made from fish so there was an extra layer of umami. The noodles blended well with the soup and fish. The last dish before entering the main sushi session was fried silver flounder. It was fried crisply and with the caviar on it, the taste was complex but simple at the same time. It was complex because you have the hot fried fish and cold caviar and sauce. The crispy outer skin, the soft meat, the tiny bites of caviar, all together formed an enjoyable dish. It was simple because it's just tasty.
Now it came to the protagonist (or I should say protagonists). All kans of sushis were made simple: seafood, wasabi, shoyu, and shyari (vinegar sushi rice). With the combination, you can clearly tell the difference between each fish. The sushi started with some light ones such as kinmedai and shrimps. Then you know the climax is coming when you see the tuna family: from akami to chutoro to the exquisite ootoro. When picking up the sushi, you can still feel the warmth left from the chef's hands, which I think is the main difference between those sushi that were pre-made. Each kan was made in perfect shape. After the ootoro was different styles of sushi, such as uni gunkan and anago temaki. Finally the sushi dishes ended up with tamago and miso soup.
The desserts were also well designed. The first one was corn ice cream, which I have never tasted before. It tastes like iced corn chowder. And the final one was my favorite: the Hokkaido Yubari melon. So sweet yet so easy to consume. Although you would already expect good food from a two star, the actual presentation still exceeded my expectations. Probably that's why this sushiya deserves two stars. Before leaving I also had a pleasant small chat with Chef Shibata. I'm certain that I would visit Sushi Noz again and don't be disappointed if the Chef is not Chef Noz.