Dined here 4/5 times in the last two years. If you’re curious about aged fish sushi, I feel Chef Shirayama’s outpost in Tokyo should be the place for your first experience.
Fish aging isn’t new to Edomae sushi. Traditionally, Hirame, Madai and most white fishes are aged a few days to develop flavor and texture. They’re often accentuated through various methods of curing using kombu, salt, vinegar, sugar, miso, sakekasu, etc. Hon Maguro, of bluefin tuna, is also aged from the brokers to the sushi chef.
At Yorozu, fish aging is elevated to a science. It’s not about the number of days; it’s about flavor. Texture. How aged fish complements chef’s al dente Nagano Koshihikari rice, cooked in bespoked cast iron/ enamel cookware, with a dose of bracing red vinegar. His deeply rich umami brushing shoyu (and slightly sweet) is also developed to pair with aged fish tane. There is no funkiness associated with aged fish, but specific scents and textures which an aged fish - like a Shiro Amadai, or a well-aged Kanpachi - should emanate.
Every season, the lineup changes. This is in line with all reputable, high quality sushiya. Here, not only the sushi tane is aged. The cooked dishes go through aging too. I recall eating aged Monkfish liver and Botan Ebi. And his Clam Dashi which is made with nothing other than water, sake and the clam that’s been kept to an inch of its life, literally tastes like clam essence.
Unlike more tourist friendly sushiya, Chef Shirayama’s English isn’t perfect. And he doesn’t take the Route One approach to bombard the night’s menu with the usual - and expensive - crowd pleasers like Uni and Awabi (which really is a summer season special, and not that remarkable outside the summer months). Service can be a bit awkward as he tries his best to explain what the guests are eating. But these days, with all sorts of translation apps, one gets by.
The sake pairing here is always on point - the list features seasonal sake, less heralded breweries. Not your usual big guns like Juyondai, Isojiman, Zaku etc.
Over the years, the restaurant Has raised its prices. But that’s pretty much what happened in Tokyo post covid. My meal came up to about 51,000¥, including several sakes. Is it the cheapest? No. Neither is it the priciest. I think it is a fair price to pay for an aged fish master at the top of his game.
As a foodie, I’m glad that sushi has evolved so much in the past few years. There’re many sushi restaurants in Tokyo, most adhering to more classical Edomae styles. It is definitely worth taking a detour to experience those who are working with aged fish. And you can’t go wrong with Yorozu.