Absolutely loved my visit to Essex Market, a vibrant mosaic of flavors, cultures, and craftsmanship that still carries echoes of the Lower East Side’s soul. From Café D’Avignon’s buttery pastries to the bold, unforgettable dishes at Dhamaka, every vendor brings something special. I stocked up at Essex Olive & Spice, grabbed fresh fish from the family-run fishmonger, and treated myself to Chinatown Ice Cream Factory’s black sesame scoop. Pure joy.
I also had a fantastic ceviche at Don Ceviche, bursting with citrus, heat, and freshness. Their Peruvian flavors are the real deal.
The butcher shop, run by a husband-and-wife team with over two decades at Essex, is another standout. Their selection is unmatched on the Lower East Side, and you can feel the pride in every cut.
That said, I’d be lying if I claimed not to miss the old Essex Street Market across Delancey. That scrappy, character-filled space had a rhythm all its own. It’s gone now, and it’s not coming back, just like so many pieces of the city that get swept away in the tide of gentrification, which creeps like a slow disease both downtown and eastward. Even Dhamaka, brilliant as it is, feels like part of that paradox: a celebration of forgotten flavors in a space shaped by the very forces that erase them.
Still, life moves forward. The new market is beautiful, and many legacy vendors are keeping the spirit alive. I was genuinely disappointed to find the Market Line food court downstairs closed. It added a whole other layer of discovery and community. Hopefully it reopens soon, even better and even bolder, because Essex Market deserves a vibrant underground to match its street-level brilliance.
Five stars, with a bittersweet heart.